Audi A6 Avant (C6) – LED Tail Light Retrofit

Grant Tiller

Before
Grant Tiller

After
Grant Tiller

At the time I did this project, all parts bought from Martyn Franklin at VAG Parts www.vagparts.com +44 (0) 1793 487700
However, I understand that VAG Parts were a casualty of the recession, and are no longer trading.
A good alternative could be Stafford Audi Part department – I have used them in the past, and had no problems with them.
Whilst Stafford Audi, are a main dealer, they seem very willing to help and assist on this type of project, and are not too over the top with their pricing.
Have a look at www.staffordaudi.co.uk
They also have a large eBay store http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Stafford-Audi

Parts List:

  • 4F9945093C  LED tail light
  • 4F9945094C  LED tail light
  • 4F9945095H  LED tail light
  • 4F9945096H  LED tail light

Fitting the new LED clusters is a quick and easy job, taking no more than fifteen minutes to do.

No specialist tools are required:

  • 8mm nut spinner
  • large size flat-bladed screwdriver
  • medium size flat-bladed screwdriver
  • wooden lolly stick or plastic wedge

PART 1 – Rear Light (inner section)



Grant Tiller
First undo the quarter turn warning triangle cover on the boot lid.

Grant Tiller
This will reveal the two quarter turn fasteners which cover the rear of the light cluster.

Grant Tiller
With a large flat-bladed screwdriver, turn each of the fasteners through 90 degrees.

Grant Tiller
The end of the trim panel will then hang down.

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The whole of the trim panel can now be removed from the vehicle.

Grant Tiller
The rear of the light cluster is now exposed.

Grant Tiller
Remove the electrical connector.This is done by squeezing in the catch on each end (circled in red).

Grant Tiller
Using the 8mm nut spinner, undo the two retaining brackets (circled in red).

Grant Tiller
The smaller retaining bracket is easily removed from the rear of the light cluster.

Grant Tiller
The larger retaining bracket can be removed by pushing out the light cluster very slightly.
It is a little more awkward as it stretches across the whole width of the light cluster.

Grant Tiller
You can start to withdraw the light cluster from the tail gate.
You will notice that the cable is held to the light cluster by a retaining clip.

Grant Tiller
Using your fingers (no tools required) gently prise apart the two prongs of the retaining clip and remove the cable.

Grant Tiller
The light cluster assembly can now be withdrawn completely from the boot lid.

Grant Tiller
The old light cluster (top) alongside the new LED cluster.
Note: the new cluster is covered by a protective wrapping, which I chose to leave in place until I had finished fitting.

Grant Tiller
The cable retaining clip is a slightly different style on the new LED cluster.
Same principle though – just push the cable into the ‘V’.

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Be sure that the cable is not pinched, offer the new LED cluster up to the hole.

Grant Tiller
Ensure that the new LED cluster is nestling neatly and squarely in the hole.

Grant Tiller
Start with the larger retaining bracket.
As with the removal, refitting is a little bit awkward, and requires you to push up slightly on the LED cluster.
Tighten the nut with the 8mm nut spinner.

Grant Tiller
Offer the smaller retaining bracket up to the stud, and with the 8mm nut spinner tighten.
Now go back to the larger retaining bracket and tweak up the 8mm nut fully.
Be sure not to over tighten either nut – these are only plastic brackets, and it is the rubber gasket that does the work.

Grant Tiller
Plug the cable into the new LED cluster – the connector is handed, so can only be plugged in one way.

Grant Tiller
Check that there is an even gap between the new LED cluster and the boot lid.

Grant Tiller
Refit the trim panel that covers the rear of the new LED cluster.

Grant Tiller
Push the trim panel into place, ensuring that all the clips at the other end are pushed properly home.

Grant Tiller
Tighten up the two quarter turn fasteners.

PART 2 – Rear Light (outer section)



Grant Tiller
Empty the luggage compartment side trim of odds & ends, and clear a space in the boot.

Grant Tiller
Open the luggage compartment side trim by pulling the handle at the top.

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Remove the luggage compartment side trim to reveal the fuse box and the jack.

Grant Tiller
Locate the securing nut in the insulation cut-out, and undo it using the medium size flat-bladed screwdriver.

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The light cluster securing stud is now exposed.

Grant Tiller
The next step is to remove the light cluster from the back of the car.
Look at the picture carefully to see the two ball joints that hold the outer side of the light cluster in place.

Grant Tiller
Use the lolly stick or the plastic wedge, and gently push it between the light cluster and the body.

Grant Tiller
Continue to push the wedge in, and gently lever the light cluster away from the body.

Grant Tiller
Be sure to pull the light cluster out remaining parallel, so that the stud is not put under any stress.

Grant Tiller
Continue to pull the light cluster so that it is clear of the bodywork.

Grant Tiller
Remove the electrical connector.
This is done by pushing in the catch (circled in red).

Grant Tiller
The light cluster can now be removed completely.

Grant Tiller
The old light cluster (top) alongside the new LED cluster.
Note: the new cluster is covered by a protective wrapping, which I chose to leave in place until I had finished fitting.

Grant Tiller
Offer the new LED cluster near to the back of the car.

Grant Tiller
Plug the cable into the new LED cluster – the connector is handed, so can only be plugged in one way.

Grant Tiller
Gently push the new LED cluster into the opening, and ensure that the stud goes into the hole.

Grant Tiller
Gently push the top outer edge of the LED cluster.
You will hear a click, as the ball and socket unite.

Grant Tiller
Now push the bottom outer edge of the LED cluster.
You will hear a click, as the ball and socket unite.
The LED cluster should now be sat neatly in the hole.

Grant Tiller
Inside the car, do up the securing nut in the insulation cut-out, using the medium size flat-bladed screwdriver.

Grant Tiller
Check that there is an even gap between the new LED cluster and the bodywork.

Grant Tiller
Check that there is an even gap between both of new LED clusters when the boot lid is closed.

Grant Tiller
Refit the luggage compartment side trim.

PART 3 – VAG-Com coding to support the LED Clusters


Now the new LED light clusters have been fitted, you will need to recode the correct module using VAG-Com.

Grant Tiller
The diagnostics port is located in the driver’s side footwell

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The diagnostics port is above the accelerator pedal adjacent to the footwell light (if fitted)

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Plug in the VAG-Com lead, and connect it to your computer.

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Launch the VAG-Com program, and wait a few seconds for the application to find all the modules available.
Under Select Control Module click the Select button.

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Under the Common tab, click the 46 – Central Conv button.

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Under the Advanced Functions section, click the Coding – 07 button.

Grant Tiller
Make a note of the original Software Coding value – in my example the value is 0008955.

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Following the help dialogue box, add 0131072 to the original Software Coding value.
Type the new number into the Software Coding box – in my example, the new value is 0140027.

Click Do It!

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Click Close Controller, Go Back -06

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Click Go Back

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Click Exit

That’s it – you’re good to go!

Categories: cars

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6 replies

  1. Dear Grant
    Great Post !! because of your post ,i have decide to update my avant.
    Just a question for the VAG-Com software can i use the lite version ?
    Or must purchase the HEX + CAN version ( is costly ) any cheaper way ?

    cheers
    louis

    • Hi Louis – I am pleased the article has helped you!

      I wasn’t sure of the answer to your question, so I have downloaded VCDS-Lite-1.1 from RossTech.

      This only support Serial connected cables, and unfortunately I have a USB cable – which means the whole of the product is blanked out.

      Looking at the spec and the descriptions on their website though, it seems that you are only able to do high level diagnostics.
      Since this is fairly low level coding (advanced function within specific modules) I think this will always require the full version.

      Have a look at the Audi forums – you will probably find people near you that have the cable, and can code it for you – it is literally only a two minute job.

      It is well worth getting a cable of your own if you plan on staying in an Audi for a while – it is really handy to know what is going on with your car… it means that a dealer can never rip you off, as you know the problem before they do!!!

      Hope this helps!

      Grant

  2. Thank You, Grant.
    I had water in the outer section of the rear light. had no clue how to remove the section. I found the securing nut, but that was not enough, the other nuts nearby seemed to hold something else. Thank You for the advice about ball joints.

  3. I can see this is now an old post, but was ideal to help me change the rear outside light cluster on my wife’s Audi A6 Allroad. Done in a few minutes and luckily I didn’t seem to need to do the recoding. Thanks again.

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